AXS is revolutionizing road and gravel riding, and BBInfinite Ceramitech pulleys cure one of the few shortcomings found in the new system: DRAG! Our AXS Ceramitech pulleys are molded rather than machined to increase durability and keep drivetrains running smooth and quiet. The in-molded Ceramitech bearing is the same stunning G3 version found in our newest 12/14 Shimano pulleys systems. Visit www.bbinfinite.com for details. Here's a link: https://www.bbinfinite.com/pages/pulleys Maximum power and maximum durability are what you expect from BBInfinite Ceramitech pulleys, and our new AXS pulley set will deliver a massive improvement over the shockingly inefficient stock pulleys. Inside the package you will find, of course, the upper and lower pulleys, the required shields, and a handy tube of kluber isoflex grease for your periodic servicing. And all you have to do is scan this QR code on the front with your smartphone and it will launch the installation instructions where you can find direct links to videos including the service video and this very installation video. So we're gonna go ahead and take this off right here. It requires a tool…but we can talk another time about why modern thru-axles don't have quick releases. But I digress. We’re going to go ahead and put on the upper pulley first. Just, you don't take the chain off or anything. You just have to pull the rear wheel out, makes it really easy, and then go ahead and loosen up the upper pulley. You're just doing the upper pulley first. We do them one at a time. That way you don't…uh, oh…well, that’s one way to do it. So grab the upper pulley, which is of course marked upper, and they are very specific so you’ve got to put the upper one in the upper spot and the lower one in the lower spot. And as long as you face all the graphics out on the bike away from the wheel you know you're going to have them in the correct orientation, and the correct pin. So we'll go ahead and get this one right on there like that. And we’re just gonna snug this in place. Now they’ve gone to a 2.5 mm allen wrench or hex socket, depending on what country you’re in. And we’ll just snug that and we'll just move right along to the lower pulley, which incorporates the stop drop (narrow-wide) profile, which so many of us have become familiar with from Sram. The upper pulley does not have that stop drop profile. Once again stop drop, so you got to go ahead and put the big link down into the big space. Alright, let’s see here. Working with small fasteners is kinda like working with small children or animals; they don't always cooperate. So set your torque wrench to 4 newton meters. These are very small fasteners, so we don't want to over tighten them. I frequently get the question about, “Oh, if I don't have a torque wrench, you know, can I still do it”, and I say yes to that, but you need to be very cautious, and you need to understand, and have a good feel, and have some experience on knowing what you're doing or else you can strip these things out and really cause yourself a problem. From here we just need to check the shifting to make sure nothing major has changed. You shouldn't have to make any gross adjustments because the pulleys, even though they have a greatly enhanced Ceramitech bearing, they are physically identical in profile to the factory pulleys. Therefore, you should not have to make many adjustments. Now if you find yourself thinking, “Aw, man, I really gotta make some big adjustments here”, stop what you're doing, and first and foremost check and make sure that the wheel is in the drops straight. This is the likely reason you're having this problem. If it is straight in the drops, and you are still having a bit of a hard time dialing it in, you're going to need to make sure the derailleur hanger is straight using a proper gauge. This is perfect, it’s ready to roll, and I'm going to go take it for a test drive. Visit bbinfinite.com to find all the ways you can become infinitely faster.